This might be uncomfortable. But it needs to be said.
We’ve been clinging to the health narrative as if it’s the wine industry’s biggest enemy.
But wine sales were already declining before the latest round of alcohol-and-cancer headlines. We’re focused on the wrong thing.
We’re treating symptoms, not the cause.If health campaigns were truly the problem, how do we explain this: The global e-cigarette and vape market was valued at USD 28.17 billion in 2023.
It’s expected to reach USD 182.84 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 30.6%. (Source: Grand View Research)
Is the health narrative really what’s holding wine back, or is that just the excuse we’re most comfortable with?
Even millennials like me never fully embraced wine. And Gen Z? They’re not avoiding wine because they’re afraid of dying. They’re avoiding it because it doesn’t feel alive. The rituals, the rules, the language, it hasn’t changed. And for most people, it just doesn’t resonate.
Every time the industry tries to “solve” the problem, we fall back on the same familiar prescriptions: more education, more moderation, more talk of “drinking less but better”. It’s all reactive. Defensive. Passive.The real issue? Wine stopped being cool.
This isn’t about calories. Or guidelines. It’s about culture.Look at cigarettes. Sales dropped, sure, but something else took their place. Vapes. Nicotine pouches. Sleek little devices you can carry in your pocket and puff like it’s candy. It’s not “better”, but it’s new. And that’s the difference.I was in Europe recently when a friend handed me a sleek, candy-coloured nicotine stick. I knew it wasn’t good for me. I used it anyway.
Why? Because it felt new. Effortless. Fun.Wine hasn’t felt like that in years. We keep recycling the same scripts: terroir, tradition, tasting notes. But heritage alone doesn’t create culture. Culture evolves. Culture listens. And right now, wine isn’t listening. It’s lecturing.Meanwhile, new drinks are connecting.
They’re simple. Casual. Relatable. They speak the language of today’s life, not yesterday’s legacy.And this is where we need to get honest: Perception drives reality.If wine is perceived as intimidating, rigid, or out of touch, that’s what it becomes.
And when I ask industry leaders how they plan to shift that perception, most don’t have an answer. Paul Mabray said it best: PEOPLE, PROCESS, SYSTEMS.
So maybe the question isn’t:How do we save wine from the health conversation? Maybe it’s:How do we make wine worth choosing again?
Because if nicotine can grow 30% year-on-year, with full knowledge of the risks, then the issue was never health. It was always relevance.
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