This week Tony Astle dropped by Auckland’s Commercial Bay to dine at Ahi. The restaurant delivers “food at its best”, using fresh ingredients from across New Zealand, and organic vegetables grown in the Ahi Kitchen Garden in South Auckland.

He sampled the Wallaby Tartare with Puffed Wagyu Tendons and Fermented Hot Sauce, the Te Matuku Waiheke Oysters, and the Bigeye Tuna, Confit Turnip, Watercress and Shiso among other dishes.

The Bigeye Tuna from Ahi.

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Serves 6

Ingredients

10 Free Range Eggs, separated

3 Tbsp caster sugar

1 Tbsp finely grated orange zest

350gm white chocolate

6 Tbsp of Grand Marnier

Soft, unsalted butter to grease ramekins

3 Tbsp caster sugar for dusting

Method

1. Beat egg yolks, sugar and orange zest in a mixer until thick and creamy.
2. Melt the chocolate with the Grand Marnier in a double boiler. It is important not to let the water come to a boil underneath or to let the bowl touch the water.
3. Combine the melted chocolate with the egg mixture and mix thoroughly. Set aside until required. The mixture can be refrigerated at this stage.
4. Butter the individual ramekins thoroughly and dust with the second measure of sugar. Set aside.
5. Gently reheat the chocolate mixture until it is tepid.
6. Preheat fan bake oven to 180 degrees Celsius.
7. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks. Fold a quarter of the whites into the chocolate mixture, then carefully fold in the remainder.
8. Pour into the ramekins to just below the top.
9. Bake for 15mins or until cooked.
10. Serve immediately, dusted with icing sugar and lashings of whipped cream.

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This week Tony Astle ate at Maison Vauron, a French Bistro in Auckland’s Newmarket.

They offer fresh, authentic cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere, and offer the opportunity to explore their unique wine cellar with a variety of wines from throughout France.

Tony sampled the Planche de Charcuterie, Pan cooked Tarakihi, and Saucisson de Canard.

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Serves 12

Ingredients

12 egg whites (room temperature)

400g caster sugar

2 tsp vanilla essence

2 tsp vinegar (white, malt or cider)

2 Tbsp cornflour

Method

1. Line two oblong sandwich tins with non-stick baking paper. Ensure there is plenty of overlap of the baking paper on all sides of the tins.
2. Preheat a fan-forced oven to 180 degrees Celsius
3. In an electric mixer whisk the egg whites (on full speed) until they form firm peaks.
4. Steadily add the sugar by degrees until it is all incorporated.
5. Add the vanilla and vinegar and continue whisking for 5 more minutes.
6. Reduce speed and add the cornflour making sure to incorporate it well.
7. Divide the mixture between the 2 sandwich tins and smooth out the tops.
8. Bake in the oven for 12 minutes.
9. Remove and let them cool to room temperature.

To Roll

1. Lay a large sheet of tin foil on the bench and lay a sheet of baking paper on top of the foil. Liberally sprinkle the baking paper with icing sugar.
2. Gently loosen the meringue from the baking paper in the tin, then invert (crust side down) onto the icing sugar coated baking paper.
3. Spread with whipped cream and then spread the fruit mince.
4. Roll away from yourself to form a roulade shape.
5. Seal both ends of the foil/paper and refrigerate for at least an hour - or make it the day before and refrigerate overnight.
6. Repeat rolling process for second roulade.
7. Serve with fresh berries.

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This week Tony Astle ate at St. Marg's, a restaurant on Karangahape Road that sells all of the usual fare as well as some unexpected delights.

He sampled the Oysters, Beef tartare, the roast sirloin of the day, and the T-bone steak.

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6-8 portions

Ingredients

4 egg whites

1 tsp vanilla essence

1.25 cups castor sugar

20 g cornflour

1 tsp vinegar

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180C.
2. Beat egg whites to a foam. Then, continuing to beat, gradually adding the sugar.
3. Continue to beat until the mixture almost creates stiff peaks, around 5 minutes.
4. Add the remaining ingredients, beating for 2 more minutes.
5. Using a wet (cold water) 7.5 cm open ended ring mould* on non-stick baking paper, on a baking sheet, fill the moulds with the mixture.
6. Flatten the tops with a palette knife. Lift off the mould.
7. Repeat until mixture is used.
8. Reduce the oven temperature to 100C. Add the moulded pavlovas to the oven.
9. Bake for 1 hour, then turn the oven off, leaving the pavlovas in the residual oven heat to complete cooking (overnight is recommended).

Plating

1. Place a pavlova on your dessert plate.
2. Top with a quenelle of Chantilly cream** and sliced strawberries.
3. Eat and enjoy!

*A 2cm high sliced plastic drain pipe works well as an inexpensive mould.

** Combine cream with plenty of icing sugar, and vanilla essence. Beat.

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This week Tony Astle offers up a recipe for Chilled Avocado Soup with Vodka, Chives and Macadamia Nuts.

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4 portions

Ingredients:

• 3 ripe avocados
• 125 g tomato, roughly chopped
• 25 g green capsicum, chopped
• 25 g celery, chopped
• 25 g chives, chopped
• 30 ml lemon juice
• 125 g sour cream
• 3-4 drops tabasco sauce
• 60 ml vodka
• 400 ml chicken stock
• Salt, to taste

Garnish:

3-4 macadamia nuts

chopped chives

Method:

1. Peel the avocados, discard the stones and peel.
2. Combine avocado flesh, tomato, capsicum, celery, chives, lemon juice, and sour cream in a blender. Blend well to combine and puree.
3. Then, add the tabasco and vodka.
4. Keeping the blender running, add sufficient chicken stock until a soup consistency is achieved.
5. Pour into a storage bowl, check seasoning. Refrigerate 1-2 hours.

To Serve:

Pour into shot glasses, top with shaved macadamia nut and chives.

or

Portion into four chilled bowls, top with shaved macadamia nut and chives.

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Tony Astle is back in New Zealand, and this week he ate at Ponsonby’s San Ray.

They serve bistro classics with the vibrant flavours of Southern California and Mexico, all cooked over coals and woodfire.

Tony sampled both the Fresh Waiheke Oysters, the Oysters Natural, the Octopus, and the Wagyu Bavette, among others, each dish ranking well.

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Ingredients

• 150 g almonds, toasted
• 130 g hazelnuts, toasted
• 180 g dried peaches or apricots, chopped
• 40 g candied peel, chopped
• 125 g flour, sieved
• 25 g cocoa powder
• 2 tsp cinnamon
• ½ tsp allspice
• ½ tsp ground ginger
• ¼ tsp ground gloves
• 180 ml runny honey
• ¼ tsp salt
• 200 g white sugar
• 115 g dark chocolate

Method:

1. Heat oven to 155 deg C. Grease and line a 23cm cake pan with non-stick paper.
2. Sieve together the flour, cocoa, spices, and salt. Combine with all ingredients EXCEPT the honey, sugar and chocolate.
3. Combine the honey and sugar in a clean saucepan, and heat until it reaches the soft ball stage, 115-dec C, using a sugar thermometer.
4. When the honey/sugar mix reaches that temperature, remove from the stove and cool for 1-2 minutes. Then pour over the chocolate, stirring to melt the chocolate and combine the honey/sugar and melting chocolate together. Do this quickly.
5. Add this mix to the other ingredients.
6. Combine, and then press into the lined cake pan. This will take some strength!* Again work quickly ensuring all dry ingredients are well incorporated.
7. Bake in the preheated oven for 30 mins. Cool.
8. Remove from mould, dust with icing sugar. Cut into thin wedges.
9. Eat and enjoy!

*Panforte means strong bread, a reference to its taste rather than its firmness.

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This week Tony Astle didn’t dine out, but rather is telling the story of his own culinary endeavours.

At the height of its success in the 1980s, Tony and Beth Astle owned and operated Antoine’s, a Parnell-based restaurant that was booked out months in advance.

‘Let Them Eat Tripe’ tells the story of Antoine’s, and Tony joined Kerre Woodham for a chat about the recently released book.

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4 Portions

Ingredients:

• 450 g fresh asparagus
• 700 ml chicken or vegetable stock
• 120 g potato, diced peeled
• 50 g onion, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, crushed
• 55 g butter
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• salt and pepper
• 170 ml cream
• extra blanched asparagus to garnish

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the diced potato, onion, and crushed garlic. Sweat together without colour for 3 minutes.
2. Add the stock and cook the ingredients until the potato is cooked through. Approximately 12 minutes.
3. Add the asparagus (chopped) and continue cooking until the asparagus is just done.
4. Puree. For a refined soup strain, using some force. For a rustic soup, do not strain.
5. In a clean pan, add the soup. Heat. Add the cream. Check seasoning and adjust.
6. Finish with lemon juice.

Plating:

Portion the soup. Top with a swirl of fresh cream and some sliced asparagus or asparagus tips. Eat and enjoy.

Note:

Do not overcook the asparagus, otherwise your soup will lose its fresh green colour.

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Returning home from his adventures in France, Tony Astle has one more restaurant to review from his trip. This week, he last ate at La Brasserie du Corton, an offshoot of Villa Madie with seasonal menus and fresh ingredients.

He sampled the Tartare de boeuf aux huîtres, poitrine de cochon confite, and the thon rouge de Méditerranée with an accompanying ratatouille, among other dishes.

“The service at Corton is extremely professional. Every need was executed with aplomb.”

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Ingredients:

Eggs

Sugar

Chocolate

Grand marnier

Egg whites

Pinch of salt

Icing sugar

Cream

Additional grand marnier (optional)

Method:

1. Line a 9 x 6 cm sponge sandwich tin with non-stick baking paper. Allow for high sides, the cooked sponge will rise.
2. Preheat the oven to 180 deg C.
3. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks, gradually adding the sugar. Beat until the mix is thick and forms a ribbon.
4. Melt the chocolate and grand marnier over a bain marie (hot water bath). When melted, set aside over the water bath for warmth.
5. Whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt, until the whites golf firm peaks.
6. Combine the chocolate/grand marnier mix with the thick sugar/egg yolk mix. Beat until combined.
7. Gently fold through the egg white.
8. Pour into the prepared lined sandwich tin. Even out the surface.
9. Bake for 10-15 minutes until the centre is firm to the touch.
10. Remove from the oven, let cool.
11. Prepare a sheet of tin foil that is topped with a sheet of baking paper. Liberally sprinkle the baking paper with icing sugar.
12. Invert the sponge tin onto the icing sugared paper, releasing the sponge. Remove the baking paper from the sponges base.
13. Whip the cream. Spread it on half of the roulade leaving a space at the edge of the roulade that has no cream. Roll up the roulade in a rolling motion, away from yourself.
14. Make sure the roll is tight and even by screwing up either end of the roulade, using the tin foil, thus creating an evenly shaped roulade.
15. Refrigerate (best refrigerated overnight), or for at least a few hours.
16. Remove from the refrigerator. Gently unwrap. Slice portions and plate.
17. Eat and enjoy!

Note:

After unwrapping the roulade, and before cutting it into portions, you may like to sprinkle it with more grand marnier.

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Tony Astle is still in France, and this week he last ate at Mazette! in Annecy, which offers seasonal cuisine in the French Bistro tradition.

He sampled the Carpaccio de langue de boeuf, a “sensational” dish of thinly sliced beef tongue with capers, spring onions, celery, and toasted croutons, as well as the ris de veau grille, and le pate en croute, among other things.

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Recipe of the Week: Braised Lamb Shanks in Red Wine and Rosemary

Ingredients: Lamb Shanks

2 carrots, peeled, rough chopped 2 onions, peeled rough chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled, chopped fine
50 ml oil
4 lamb shanks
3 tsp flour
1 l brown stock
275 ml red wine
2 ½ Tbsp tomato paste
2 bay leaves
1 rosemary sprig
salt & pepper

Method

1. Brown the carrots, onion, and garlic in a little oil, then place in a deep pan or casserole dish.

2. Dry, then brown the shanks in a hot pan with a little oil.

3. Add the shanks to the vegetables.

4. Drain off any oil. In the pan, add the tomato paste.

5. Over a low heat, ‘cook-out’ the tomato paste, stirring regularly, for 2-3 minutes. Doing this step sweetens the tomato paste, by partially caramelising its sugar content.

6. Stir in the flour. Add the wine and stock to the tomato paste. Stir and bring to a boil.

7. Add the liquid to the shanks and vegetables. Add the rosemary and bay leaf. Season.

8. Cook in a preheated oven (160-170 deg C) for around 2 hours, or until the shank meat is tender.

9. When done, remove the shanks and keep them warm.

10. Strain the cooking liquid and discard the solids.

11. In a pan reduce the cooking liquid until it thickens. Check seasoning.

Assembly

1. Having prepared your favourite potato dish and vegetables, plate the potato.

2. Lean the shank on the potato, add sauce and your vegetables.

3. Eat and enjoy!

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